Pacific Ocean, 41º53' North, May 19th: Gale & swell

The water is a dark grey, with deep blue undertones, a menacing colour with leaves no doubt as to my fate, should I go overboard. I'm not yet dressed and the temperature has been steadily dropping; it's probably still 10ºC but the wind chill and the early hour makes it feel colder, harder.

We've been doing 4 hours on and 16 hours off, sailing across over 180 nautical miles a day, barely motoring and keeping on course. Not too hard really, once you've given back to the ocean a couple of breakfasts and you've forgotten the rocking. But not this morning: this morning is just a shit morning.

Stifling a yawn, I get into three layers of merino clothing, put on two pairs of socks and my boots and foul weather gear. In the background, Clem is screaming for hands on deck as sails need to go down. I drag my feet on deck and take place on the pilot house, ready to pull the sail down when the order is given. And then I look towards the stern, behind Nico who is filming from a precarious position in the dinghy.

And then I remember: this is what I am here for.

From the ocean,

Vicou the Sea Gypsy

PS: I'm actually not sailing, just posting from the airport in Dutch Harbour, Alaska, where I am hogging the free wifi

PPS: Thanks to Tim Charody for the great pics!

passage to Alaska arctic front 20

passage to Alaska arctic front 09

passage to Alaska arctic front 19

passage to Alaska arctic front 22